Emma left St Helena the 25 of march heading for the Azors. She has no engine to take Caprice through the “no winds belt”. Good winds E SE took her passing the small island Ascension. The 11/4 she passed the zero meridian. Today and yesterday she was cought in a doldrum area. She is slowly drifting west and had some rainwater to collect, and also cought there fishes since St Helena. So despite my ateist belief, I will tonight make a little prayer for good winds that will take her to the Azors
Dags att komma hem och dags att tjäna pengar.
Tänkte ta vara på tillfället att ha skaffat lite nätverk för att jag söker ett jobb så snart jag kommer hem. Eller flera mindre jobb. Innan jag skaffar ett riktigt till hösten.
Jag kan jobba från Maj och under sommaren eller delar av sommaren. Jag kan tänka mig (nästan) vad som helst.
Mina många talanger inkluderar: Trubadur/musiker, gitarr/ukulele lektioner, renovering av båtar (ej motorer…;), restaurang/bar/underhållning, hemtjänst/personlig assistent, jobba med barn och ungdomar, segla….
Hör av er till min pappa under April på email@example.com, eller till mig på firstname.lastname@example.org från Maj.
Cooking in Gale
I didn’t manage to post a blog before leaving Brazil and I have now been at sea since the 10th of February.
I made a decision to turn homewards from Florianpolis. The last few days sailing from Rio Grande had been very slow an so I stopped in Florianpolis to do some more research and reconcider my plan.
As I wanted to reach home by May I decided against sailing to Falkland Islands.
I do have a thing about remote islands and I wanted a final destination for my journey, so I took a course towards Tristan da Cunha. This also meant that I got much better winds than trying to sail north from Rio. And I would reach the borders of the Southern Ocean.
This island is difficult to visit as you can only anchor outside the harbour and only in good weather.
The sail to Tristan was great with mostly strong winds, and I got a sense of the southern ocean as the air and water temperature dropped and the whole atmosphere slowly changed, much to my liking. I also had some kind of whales swimming with Caprice for a while. They were not porpoisses but up to 4 meter in lenght.
Tristan da Cunha is truly magical. It is symmetrical in shape and towers up above the sea with majestic lines and the vulcano top straight in the middle. Absolutely beautiful! It is the most remote inhabited island in the world so I was pretty excited to see it, at the same time being aware that a visit entirely depends on the weather so I prepared myself for the worst scenario, that being just seing it from the water.
The day we where closing up on the island the wind was pretty weak so I was running the engine to get there before dark. Then a funny sound apperared and the engine cut out. I spent hours trying to fix it. I am rubbish with engines but I did everything I could figure out from the instruction manual. Eventually it started but only to cut out again after 20 minutes.
It was then dark as I approached the little lights from the settlement so I hove to for the night and sailed into the anchorage in the morning. I was REALLY lucky with the weather because the anchorage is not att all protected and the harbour entrance is subjected to the big swells from the Atlantic, meaning that you can only drive in and out of it on certain days. My rubber dinghy without an engine was entirely out of the question.
So I anchored up at about 10 in the morning Sunday the 6th of March on the koordinates given to me by the harbour master. The weather was beautiful, sunny, slight chilly but light wind.
A boat came to pick me up at about 12. This was lucky again as it costs £120 to hire one for the day but they where out anyway and so very kindly they didn’t charge me anything.
Tristanians are English citicens, and have had a commuinity there since the early 19th century, consisting of different shipwrecked people. A very interesting story.
Conrad, whom took care of my port clearance, remembered Sven Yrvind visiting the Island in Bris in the 70s (?) Conrad was then 13 years old.
After Conrad had cleared me in and stamped my passport with a beautiful Tristan stamp, Dawn, the head of tourism took me under her wing and I had an unforgettable day on this stunning and unique island. It was a Sunday and Dawn’s only day off so it was ever so kind of her to give me her time and she and her family made me feel so welcome.
I have never been is such a calm place, everybody I met had such a calm aura about them. The small village has one bar in which we had two drinks, one little shop and that is it.
Dawn, her husband and her daughter took me on a little drive to see the potato patches where all the familys has a little summer hut in which they often spend the weekends. It was the cutest thing I have every seen!
Amber, the 10 year old daughter told me that they where 4 children in their class and 25 students in the entire school. Nobody has mobile phones on the island. It was really a little paradise. Instead they communicate with VHF.
They keep cattle, sheep and chickens and Dawn very kindly gave me big chunk of lamb, potatoes, eggs and homegrown tomatoes for my onward journey. I lived very happily on lamb and potato stew for a few days. And those eggs where amazing!
At about 5 in the afternoon I was driven back to Caprice in a zodiak. You really need a fast boat to be able to drive in and out of the harbour entrance with big swells coming in. And you have to chose the right time, just after one wave and before the next one comes crashing in.
The plan was that I was to be picked up by a fishing boat in the morning to spend one more day on Tristan.
However, in the morning they called me on the VHF to say that the swells had grown and no boats could enter the harbour that day nor the following day.
So I had no choice but to anchor up and go. It made me realise how lucky I had been to get one day ashore, an experience I will never forget.
We had our first gale a couple of days after leaving Tristan. It was supposedly 14-19m/s (I have no wind meter onboard). Unfortunately it was from the North so we couldn’t go quite where we wanted. Caprice sailed very well on a beam with 3rd reef and a tiny bit of front sail. The Aries steering very nicely. As soon as I tried sailing a little more onto the wind we got violent hits banging down into the waves. It actually broke some of the interior wooden beading in the front cabin….oh well! I quickly came down wind. The gale went on for 2-3 days but it was fine. The waves where not as big as I had anticipated.
After that I got becalmed for about 4 days. That was a test for the patience!! And with no engine of course!
Then finally we hit the SE trade winds and we had steady winds the last few days to St Helena where I now am.
I have a lovely little yellow book – Pocket Atlas of Remote Islands – with stories of 50 remote Islands. I have now ticked off 2 of them. Not too bad!
Funnily enough this book proved very useful as my supposedly worldwide navigation computer is missing the charts of Tristan and St Helena. At least I have a drawn map of the Islands in the little yellow book!
An engineer came to look at my engine and as the flightwheel is jammed he said it needs to come out and taken completely apart to see what parts it needs. The parts would then need to be shipped here and so the whole affair would be costly and take a lot of time.
I have decided to keep sailing and hope to get the engine fixed in the Azores. I just have to hope that I don’t get becalmed for too long around the equator or the Azores high.
This monday Emma was forced by the whether and expected high waves —as far as I ,v understood —to leave the island. A guy had checked the engine but couldn,t do anything. Emma has to take a descision , either go east to Cape Town or north to St Helena. It looks like the winds will take her to the northern direktion. I believe it would be good for Emma to feel mental support from all of her friends so let us send it to her. I will do it tonight….
Emma called us this night – from the house of the tourist “agency”!!. She has been very well taken care of, Advised where to anchor outside the very small unprotected harbour and picked up by a boat. Yesterday we got a message, that the engine had stopped 9nm from the harbour. Luckely easy winds took her to the anchoring place. A serviceman will look at the engine tomorrow. Emma wrote that the island looks magical and beautiful.
Got a message from Emma yesterday – in 4 days she will reach Tristan, this very small vulcanic and not very accessible island on latitud 37 between Buenos Aires and Cape Town. 254 inhabitants from Great Britain sharing 9 different surnames. Emma will pass Inaccessible Island!! a very small Island 45km from Tristan.
At the 25 of januar Lollo and I left Emma and Caprice anchored at the beautiful island Ilha Grande south of Rio. We had had a marvelluos nightssail from Rio. Sitting alone in the cockpit and experience this beautiful heavy ship been taken care of by the windrudder was magic, and even more magic when two dolphines followed us for a while.
At the beginning of februar Emma left heading for Montevideo and maybe Faulklands Islands. She stoppad at the island Florianpolis 800km south of Rio. And after a couples of days of investigation and “decisionmaking” she decided to go eastwards to Tristan da Cunha. …… I hope and pray that the see and winds will take Caprice in to the very small port at Tristan.